The ultimate guide to lash mapping

There’s much more to being a lash technician than mastering the skill of how to successfully apply lash extensions to natural lashes. Equally important is the artistry of how to create the perfect-shaped set of lashes for each individual client, for which you’ll need to master lash mapping.

Lash mapping is a technique used by lash technicians to determine where each length, curl, and thickness of lash will go. It’s not just about applying extensions—it’s an art! Every client is unique, and lash mapping allows us to create a custom look that is perfect for their eye shape, natural lashes, and desired level of drama.

We’ll take you through exactly how to do lash mapping - and some popular lash maps.

What is a lash map?

Eyelash mapping is a technique used by lash technicians to create a precise diagram for applying eyelash extensions. Think of it as a blueprint for your lashes! An eyelash map separates the lashes into segments and indicates where different lengths, curls, and thicknesses will go.

By carefully planning in these terms, lash artists can create the ideal look for each client. This technique ensures that the extensions accentuate natural beauty, balance eye shape, and even correct minor flaws.

Proper eyelash mapping is more than just aesthetics; it is about making sure that the final result is not only stunning but also boosts your client's confidence with a flawless, well-thought-out design.

Lash mapping styles: Find your best fit

Luckily, there’s no need to rewrite the rulebook—there are lots of lash maps already out there to achieve different designs, though you may need to adapt them to suit your client.

Cat Eye

Probably the most popular style out there, Cat Eye lashes start with the shortest lashes at the inner corners, gradually getting longer at the outer corners creating a sexy winged look that extends out. A less dramatic version of this is sometimes called a Kitten Eye.

Squirrel Eye

Also known as a Flick. Whereas Cat Eye lashes are longest at the outer corners, A Squirrel Eye is longest around two-thirds of the way along the lash line, or at the arch of the brow if brows are perfectly shaped, with lashes tapering slightly shorter again at the outer corner. 

Doll Eye

Also known as a ‘Dolly Eye’, this style of lashing is longest above the centre of the eye, and shorter at each corner, giving a rounded, big-eyed look. It can be quite dramatic when used with longer lengths, or very natural looking with shorter lengths when it is known as simply rounded or natural lashes.

Kim K

This style has taken off big time in recent years! It features a base layer of lashes that is interspersed with ‘spikes’ of longer length lashes at regular intervals for a super feminine, glamorous look. Also known as ‘wispy’ lashes. Read our Kim K lash style tips.

Step-by-step lash mapping guide

Lash mapping may feel a bit overwhelming at first, but with the proper preparation and thorough understanding of the process, you’ll be able to create beautiful, personalized lash looks for each client. In this guide, we will walk you through preparing your client for lash mapping, choosing the best lash map for their eyes, and creating a flawless lash map.

Prepping the client for lash mapping

Your client will almost certainly have requested something specific. However, first, you need to assess a number of different aspects of your client’s face and eyes to determine whether what they have asked for will suit them, and if it won’t… find out what will!

What to check before lash mapping:

• Eye shape and angle

• Eye spacing

• Natural lash strength and curl

• Brow shape

• Face shape

Client consultation

Once you've made your assessments, consult with your client. Discuss their desired style, but be prepared to offer suggestions if their preferred look may not complement their natural features. Longer is not always better, and the requested style may not look best on them.

Clear communication and understanding are key to creating the best lash look for each client.

Choosing the right lash map

Choosing the right lash map is all about finding the perfect balance between what your client wants and what works best with their natural lashes. First, have a chat with your client to get a sense of the look they’re after—do they want something dramatic, like a Cat Eye, or more soft and natural, like a Dolly Eye?

Once you understand their vision, examine their natural lashes. If they have fine lashes, shorter extensions are best to avoid any heavy weight, whereas thicker lashes can handle longer extensions.

Eye shape and facial features also play an important role; what works for one client may not work for another. Wide-set eyes, for example, may look fantastic with a Dolly Eye map, whereas a Cat Eye could help balance close-set eyes.

By considering both their preferences and their natural lashes, you will be able to create a lash map that highlights their natural beauty!

How to create a lash map

So you have thoroughly evaluated your client's eyes, have a good idea of the design you want to create, and have ensured that your client is on board. Your next job is to make a more detailed plan for how you are going to achieve this. Follow our step-by-step guide:

1. Lash mapping on the skin

Have your client sit up straight, eyes open, and looking straight ahead—this is critical for accuracy.

Using an eyeliner or pencil, place small dots where the longest lashes will go. These dots should be placed near the brows or, if the lashes and eyelids have been prepped, closer to the lashline.

You can add multiple dots to define different lash sections based on your preferred style.

These markings serve as a guide for your client as they close their eyes, ensuring symmetry and precision.

2. Apply eye pads

With your client's eyes still open, carefully place gel pads over their lower lashes. Press gently to keep them secure, but avoid excessive pressure for comfort.

Make sure the eye pads sit at least 1-2 mm from the waterline to prevent irritation and allow for easy application of extensions.

3. Lash mapping on the gel pads

Now, have your client close their eyes. Using a colored pen (preferably red for contrast), replicate the markings from the skin onto the gel pad.

Even if the dot placements appear slightly off when their eyes are closed, trust the original mapping; it was designed with their open-eye structure in mind.

Next, draw lines on the gel pad to divide the lash line into sections—usually five or six, depending on the method you were taught. Take note of the extension lengths and curls you plan to use in each section.

This step ensures a clear, structured approach to application, making the lashing process smoother and more precise.

Tools and products you'll need for lash mapping:

• Eyeliner or pencil. This is for mapping on the skin first.

• Gel pads. These are placed over the lower lashes while you work.

• A coloured pen. This is for marking on the gel pad - you want a colour that will contrast with the eyelashes - red is a good choice. We recommend avoiding black pen if you can as your markings will be harder to spot, but if it’s all you have, place your markers further away from the lashes.

• Lash extensions. You’ll need various lengths and curls.

Tips to get started with lash mapping

The golden rule of working with lashes is that each client is unique. Your eyelashes should be as unique as your hairstyle, so there is no use looking for a one-size-fits-all solution.

Here are some common mistakes to avoid, essential tips, and pro techniques to ensure flawless results:

Common mistakes in lash mapping

• Skipping skin mapping: Never jump straight to mapping on eye pads. Mapping on the skin first (with the eyes open) ensures accuracy and a flattering result.

• Assuming short-to-long always works: Many lash artists follow a shortest-to-longest approach as they work from the inner to outer corners of the eye. However, it only looks good on certain eye shapes. For example, eyes with a slight downward turn can look droopy or tired if treated like this.

• Blindly following the natural lash shape: Simply extending each lash proportionally to its natural length can lead to unflattering results. It can make the client look sad - or funny - which is the last thing you want!

• Thinking longer is always better: Excessively long lashes can look unnatural and may even highlight flaws instead of enhancing natural beauty. Sometimes, shorter extensions create a more polished, eye-lifting effect.

How to modify a lash map if needed

• Adjust for eye spacing:

• Close-set eyes benefit from an extra length at the outer corners or just below the brow arch to create the illusion of width.

• Wide-set eyes look best with longer lashes in the center, as seen in a Dolly Eye look.

• Be cautious with almond-shaped eyes: Extending the outer corners can make them appear too wide. Instead, aim for the longest point about two-thirds of the way along the lash line (like in a Squirrel Eye style).

• Choose curls strategically: If natural lashes grow downward, use CC or D curls to lift the eyes. Keep in mind that you may need to use different curls on each eye and across the lash line of the same eye to create balance.

Pro tips for precise application

• Inner corners need extra care: Use extensions close to the natural lash length in the inner corner, but don’t be afraid to go shorter for an eyeliner illusion. Consider using thinner diameter extensions, such as 0.05, 0.04, or 0.03. If you are using classic lashes, place the thinnest diameter in the inner and outer corners. For volume or mega volume lashes where most of your set is 4D+, use no bigger than 1 or 2D fans in the corners.

• Use multiple curls for a natural effect: Don’t be afraid to mix different curls across the lash line for a more seamless, eye-enhancing look.

• Master lash placement with training: Advanced techniques, such as the ones covered in our Advanced Volume Training Course, will help you fine-tune your skills and create customized lash looks with confidence.