Lash lift process: step-by-step guide

An expert lash artist knows that sometimes waterproof mascara alone will not give a client the desired lash effect. Although eyelash extensions are convenient, they can be pricey and require regular upkeep. That's where lash lifting comes in as a noticeably more natural option and low-maintenance alternative.

If your clients are looking for a less expensive way to improve the appearance of their lashes, you should definitely consider offering a lash lift as a service. Keep this guide handy, and you'll be well-prepared to provide this popular and in-demand service to your clients.

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What Is A Lash Lift

A lash lift is a beauty treatment that lifts the natural lashes from the root to give them the appearance of being longer, more defined, and beautifully shaped. It is a semi-permanent treatment that typically lasts 6-8 weeks, depending on the natural lash growth cycle, and provides a low-maintenance alternative to using daily tools and makeup to achieve lifted lashes.

The procedure involves applying a lifting solution to soften and change the structure of the natural lash hair, allowing the lashes to be reshaped into the desired position. A setting solution is then applied to keep the lashes in their new shape, and they can also be tinted for extra definition.

The process usually takes about an hour. While there is no downtime, clients must follow the recommended aftercare instructions to protect their lift and keep their lashes conditioned after treatment.

Lash Lift Safety

Lash lifts involve the use of chemical solutions close to the eyes, so proper technique and product handling are required. Treatments should only be carried out by trained lash technicians who understand how to assess natural lashes, apply solutions safely, follow manufacturer instructions, and recognize when a client may not be suitable for treatment.

Always follow the safety guidelines for the lash lift system you're using, including any patch-testing requirements. If a client experiences unusual burning, pain, swelling, or irritation during treatment, stop the procedure and follow the product and safety instructions.

How to Do A Lash Lift

A lash lift is an excellent way to enhance the curl and definition of your client's natural lashes. The procedure can be completed in a series of steps, but because it involves chemical solutions close to the eyes, it should only be carried out by a trained lash professional who follows the instructions for the specific lash lift system.

1. Evaluate Client’s Lashes

Before you begin, evaluate the client's natural lash strength, thickness, condition, and treatment history. Ask about previous lash lifts or other chemical treatments and check for signs of weak, brittle, damaged, or over-processed lashes. This will help you determine whether the client is suitable for a lash lift and help you choose products, shield size, and processing time.

Make sure the lashes are free of makeup, oils, and dirt, as these can interfere with the treatment.

2. Place the Pads

Gently place under-eye pads over the client's lower lashes, ensuring that they are flat and comfortable against the skin.

Choose appropriately sized curved silicone pads, lash lift shields, or rods that are designed to follow the contours of the upper eyelid. Position the chosen shield close to the lash line and ensure it sits smoothly with no creases or gaps.

3. Apply Lash Adhesive

Using a small brush or applicator, apply the lash lift adhesive according to the product instructions. Carefully lift the natural lashes onto the silicone shield and hold them in place.

Brush and separate the lashes carefully so that they are straight, evenly spaced, and not crisscrossing. Correct placement at this stage is critical because the position of the natural lashes on the shield influences the final result.

4. Check the Spacing

Before applying the lifting solution, make sure the natural lashes are evenly separated and positioned on the silicone shield. Examine and correct any crossed, clumped, or uneven hairs before processing.

5. Apply Lotion 1

Apply Lotion 1 according to the instructions for the specific lash lift system you are using, keeping the product away from the eyes and skin. Placement varies by system, and you should consider the natural lash condition.

Processing time is not one-size-fits-all. Instead of relying on a single fixed processing time for each client, follow the manufacturer's instructions and take into account the client's lash thickness, strength, condition, and previous chemical treatments. Over-processing can weaken or harm the client’s natural lashes.

Patch testing requirements can also vary by product and location. Always follow the manufacturer's patch-testing instructions, your insurance requirements, and any applicable local regulations. You can read more in our guide to patch testing.

6. Apply Lotion 2

After Lotion 1 has processed for the appropriate amount of time, carefully remove it following the manufacturer's instructions. Apply Lotion 2 to set the lashes into their new position.

Again, follow the processing time specified for your chosen system, taking the client's lash thickness and condition into account. Never assume the same timing will work for all clients or all lash lift products.

7. Remove Silicone Pads

Once processing is complete, gently release the lashes from the shield using the method recommended for your system. Keratin Lotion 3 can also help release the lashes from the rod. Avoid tugging or pulling, as this can damage the natural hairs.

Carefully remove the silicone shield, and follow the instructions to remove any remaining product residue.

8. Apply Lash Tint

If the treatment includes tinting, apply it evenly to the lashes with a small brush or applicator. Pay close attention to the base, where additional colour can add definition.

Allow the tint to process according to the specific product instructions and desired colour intensity, rather than relying on a single universal processing time.

9. Remove Tint

After processing is finished, carefully remove the tint with dry cotton buds or bamboo applicators, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Work gently across the lashes without tugging or pulling, ensuring that all necessary product residue is removed.

10. Apply Lash Plump

This step is important because it helps to keep the lashes healthy and strong, and it can also help to extend the life of the lash lift treatment. Apply an even layer of Lash Plump with a small brush or applicator, following the product instructions.

It's important to allow the lash plump to fully absorb into the lashes before applying any other products or makeup. Once the lash plump has been absorbed, gently remove it with a dry bamboo or lip applicator, as directed by the product instructions.

Common Lash Lift Mistakes to Avoid

Even small details can make a big difference to your finished lash lift. Before you begin processing, watch out for these common mistakes:

• Choosing the wrong shield size: A shield that doesn’t fit the client’s lash length or desired result can create an overly tight or underwhelming lift. Choose your shield based on the natural lashes and the shape you want to achieve.
• Poor lash placement: Crossed, clumped, or unevenly spaced lashes on the shield can lead to an uneven finished look. Take your time to separate and position each lash neatly before applying the solutions.
• Over-processing the lashes: If processed for too long, natural lashes can become dry, brittle, frizzy, or over-curled. Always take into account the client's lash thickness, strength, condition, and previous treatments, and follow the manufacturer's recommended processing times.

A little extra attention during preparation and processing can save you from having to redo a lash lift later.

Lash Lift Aftercare Tips

Here are some aftercare tips to help your clients protect their lash lift and keep the natural lashes conditioned after treatment:

1. Follow the recommended timeframe for avoiding water. The length of time lashes should be dry varies between lash lift systems, so always follow the manufacturer's aftercare instructions.
2. Be gentle when cleaning the lashes. Avoid using harsh rubbing or scrubbing motions, and use a mild, oil-free cleanser.
3. Follow your lash lift system's guidance on oil-based products. Recommendations vary between manufacturers, so avoid giving each client the same fixed timeframe.
4. Keep the lashes conditioned. Use a nourishing lash lift aftercare product to keep your natural lashes soft, hydrated, and healthy-looking.
5. Treat freshly lifted lashes gently. Aftercare is not about giving your lashes time to "recover". Instead, the goal is to protect the finished lift, minimize stress on the hairs, and keep them well-conditioned.

By following these aftercare tips, your clients can help maintain their lash lift results while keeping their natural lashes conditioned and healthy-looking.