What lashes are best for hooded eyes?

Hooded eyes can be tricky: the natural fold sits over the crease, so the lash line gets “hidden”, and styles that work on other eye shapes may disappear. The good news? With the best lashes for hooded eyes, you can lift your face and make your eyes look brighter and more open without any discomfort.

In this guide, we'll go over curls, mappings, and lightweight sets that look great on hooded lids, so you (or your client) can leave with a confident, wide-awake look.

What are hooded eyes and how to identify them

Hooded eyes occur when excess skin folds over the natural crease, creating a lowered “hood” that partly covers the upper lid. This shape can be genetic (including some monolids) or develop with age as the skin loses elasticity.

As a result, the lid appears smaller, and the fold can "swallow" the lash line, hiding shorter curls or lengths. To identify hooded lids, look straight ahead in a mirror: if most of the mobile lid disappears beneath a fold and your lashes touch or sit close to the skin above, you most likely have a hooded eye shape.

The best lash curls for hooded eyes

When the lid fold hides the lash line, curl selection is just as important as length. The goal is to push past the hood and lift the eyes without the extensions rubbing against the skin or disappearing under the fold.

Why L and L+ curls are superior

L/L+ curls begin with a flatter base that sits neatly along the natural lash, then kick upward. Because of that straight base, the extension clears the hood before curving, so the curl is visible when the eyes are open. The result is a clean, lifting effect that opens the eyes without poking the eyelid.

L+ provides slightly more lift than L, which is useful for heavier hoods or deep-set lids. They’re also great for mapping “open eye” styles where you want visible height in the centre.

Using M curls for a natural lift

If L/L+ is too angular for the client's taste, M curl provides a softer-looking lift while still clearing the hood. Its straightened base with a gentle, forward kick allows the extension to extend beyond the fold before curving, ensuring that the curl is visible with the eyes open and does not collide with the upper eyelid.

M works beautifully in the inner and outer zones to keep the line smooth, or as a full-map option when you want lift without the sharper look of L+. For many clients, a mix of L/L+ in the centre and M towards the corners provides height, comfort, and an elegant, seamless transition.

Best lash styles to open up hooded eyes

With hooded lids, the trick is to show the curl above the fold and keep the lash line from looking heavy. These lash styles do exactly that: they lift the gaze, add lightness, and remain comfortable on the eyelid.

The doll eye (open eye) effect

Place your longest lengths in the centre (roughly iris to iris), with gentle tapers to the inner and outer corners. On hooded lids, this creates a rounded, vertical lift that balances the fold's horizontal "weight".

Pair L/L+ curls in the centre for height, then soften to CC curls towards the corners to avoid rubbing the lid. Keep the diameters appropriate to the client's natural lash strength so that the style looks bright rather than bulky.

Wispy and textured sets

A solid, uniform lash line can disappear under a hood. Wispy/textured sets, with staggered lengths and a mix of fans and classics, break up the line and add airiness.

Try light, narrow fans (handmade or premade volume fans) as “spikes” with shorter supporting lashes in between. The contrast highlights the curl above the fold while keeping the look soft and fluttery. Stick to a light volume so the lid does not feel weighed down.

The cat eye (with a warning)

Extending length towards the outer corners can elongate and lift, which is great for clients who prefer a sleek, almond look. Use caution: taper gradually and avoid making the very outer corner the absolute longest (a micro-drop at the end keeps the line lifted).

Important: If the eyes are downturned and hooded, a strong cat eye can pull the gaze down. In such cases, shift the focus back to the doll/open eye centre.

Classic vs. light volume

With hooded lids, less is more. Classic or light volume (hybrid at ~10–30%) keeps the lash line clean and prevents the lid from looking heavy. Classic adds definition without bulk, whereas hybrid adds soft fullness where you need it (often midline) while remaining lightweight.

Avoid mega-volume on most hooded eyes because it can darken the lid area and shorten the "visible lash" above the fold. If the client wants more drama, build it with curl and mapping rather than extra weight, and keep fans narrow with low fibre counts.

Pro tip: check your map with the eyes open before committing to full placement. A quick preview ensures that the key lengths are visible above the hood and that nothing touches the skin.

Common mistakes to avoid with hooded lids

Avoiding extreme curls (D/DD)

It’s tempting to opt for dramatic curls, but D/DD are often too rounded for hooded lids. The arc usually hits the upper eyelid skin, causing discomfort, lash distortion, and poor retention (constant rubbing = premature shedding).

Instead, use L/L+ to build height in the centre and CC for softer areas such as inner/outer corners. You'll get a visible lift above the fold without poking or twisting.

Ignoring the eye shape during mapping

One map doesn’t fit every hooded eye. Always adjust placement based on the client's lid height, fold depth, and lash strength:

• Do an eyes-open check first. With the client looking straight ahead, mark where lengths must be visible above the hood and where softer curls are needed to avoid skin contact.

• Plan curl placement strategically. Use L/L+ for centre height and C in inner/outer corners for comfort and balance.

• Preview mid-set. Sit the client up or ask them to look forward periodically; tweak with lengths and curls before committing to the full set.

• Keep it lightweight. Favour classic or light volume so that the lid doesn’t look heavy; place fullness only where it adds openness.

• Use narrow fans for texture. When adding wisps, keep fans narrow (whether handmade or premade volume fans) and avoid over-densifying the outer third.

• Document and refine. Make a note of what worked (lengths, curls, placements) for each client to improve future maps.

Conclusion

Hooded eyes can be challenging, but the right choices make all the difference. Prioritize L/L+ for height past the fold, mix in C for comfort, and use opening maps like doll/open eye or wispy/textured to keep the lash line light and visible.

Avoid extreme curls and heavy sets. Most importantly, practise on models: try different lengths, curls and placements with your eyes open until your mapping becomes second nature and every hooded eye looks bright and lifted.